Clipping and pruning of fuchsias in your garden

Fuchsias flower rapidly for extended periods of time ( more than 5 months). They need a lot of beauty care for them to look splendid at all times. Regular deadheading and pruning will maintain a beautiful look for the plant. This also keeps it healthy. Withered flowers and damaged parts should be removed at least once a week using a knife or scissors.

The stalks of removed leaves and fruit should be left to fall off alone this allows them to heal naturally. Do not create any raw surfaces by tearing the plant because moulds will develop rapidly on the wounds.

Pinching out or cutting off new shoots will encourage the plant to develop new shoots. Shoots should be cut back to 3-5 sets of leaves. Pruned shoots will develop 3-5 times as many new shoots and flower within 6 weeks.

Repotting

Repotting should be done at the start of the growing season. Young fuchsias consume a lot of nutrients in the soil, and they consume them very fast. Repotting should also be done;

  • Soon after overwintering

  • If the plant does not look healthy

  • When young plant shoots have no more space in the pots. In this case the plant is moved to a new pot which should have a diameter of 2 cm larger than the initial pot. This ensures that there is enough room for the roots to spread.

Fuchsias in Hydoculture

Fuchsias propagate quiet well in hydroculture although some botanists prefer growing them in the soil. Propagating fuchsias in hydorculture has got many advantages

  • Easy care

  • Produce stable strong fuchsias

  • Encourages perfect growth.

However it also have its limitations: hydroculture results in late flowering. The fuchsias are very reluctant to flower and there are normally problems associated with over wintering. It is also not easy to anchor supports in hydroculture.

Training fuchsias

Fuchsias can be trained into various shapes and can be trained quicker than most plants. A fuchsia can be trained to become a nicely decorated colourful tree in less then 2 years. Numerous varieties that can be trained are available such as Daisy Bell

For training to be successful you will need the right tools - a knife, rose clippers, twine, sticks and a support for the crown of the tree. Espaliers and wire are also necessary.

Bush and shrub shapes

These look very attractive. Pinch out the shoots as soon as the shoots become finger length. The tips of the shoots should be removed together with one or 2 sets of leaves. This promotes side shoots to develop. Bedding fuchsias are very suitable for this.

Plants for hanging baskets

Fuchsias that slightly hang down should be planted in hanging baskets. The shoots should be pinched out right after they have formed a fourth set of leaves. 6-8 new youngshoots which develop are then tied up. The fuchsia can be trained to grow against a wall by training the shoots around the front and sides, leaving the front bare.

Pyramids

This shape is a bit difficult to achieve. The lower branches of the fuchsia should be encouraged to produce shoots continuously. If this does not happen the lower 3 rd of the treelet will look bare; thus forcing you to train the fuchsias as a standard. A pyramid takes slightly longer to achive (3 years) and its best in a greenhouse.

Espaliers

These are very beautiful. The fuchsias may growon a frame made u of wood or plastic. It is good practice to train several plants at a time. Cut off the top as soon as the main stem reaches the required height. This makes the plant concentrate on lateral growth. Finally tie up the laterals horizontally and prune out every 2 nd set of shoots.

Bonsai

You can train fuchsia as Bonsai trees. Hanging varieties such as Multa, Minirock and Postiljon can be treated easily into cascades